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Aiming High in the Dolomites—-by Nicole Librandi, 2019

11/19/2019

 
    The Olympics are coming! The Olympics are coming…in 2026! Let’s have a 
party and celebrate!!! This was the mood in Cortina D’Ampezzo in June when the 
highly anticipated announcement was made. And—lucky us—my grand-daughter 
Maddie and I got to celebrate along with the locals!

    After days visiting ancient monuments in Rome, soaking up the balmy 
Mediterranean sun and waters, gazing at the Renaissance beauties of Florence, 
sampling fruits of  Tuscan vineyards and olivetti (olive groves), tasting cicchetti 
(tapas) across the canal from the Squero (Venice’s historic gondola workshop), we 
leaned back and enjoyed a comfortable bus ride into the dramatic landscape of the 
Dolomites, aiming for Cortina. (www.dolomiti.org)

    As we discovered, grazie to internet sources: “Cortina d’Ampezzo is located 
in the Province of Belluno between the regions of Veneto, Trentino and Alto Adige, 
at 1,224 meters (4,016 feet) above sea level and has almost 6,000 inhabitants. It 
lies in a vast valley surrounded by the spectacular Ampezzo Dolomites. Considered 
one of the most beautiful places in the world, this ‘Queen of the Dolomites’ has 
also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.”

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​In Cortina we expected streets to be clogged with chi-chi tourists, and out- of-sight prices. Instead, we met by friendly, laid-back locals sharing free libations and tasty snacks in honor of the Olympics announcement. Also on hand were an open and enthusiastic welcome in Alpine-style accommodations and typical Tyrolean specialties in the restaurants—all at reasonable prices.

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​Departing from the center of Cortina, we rode smoothly via  the Tofana-Freccia nel Cielo (Arrow in the Sky) cable car to the Cima Tofana (3244 m/10,643 feet).  On the wide terrace we savored a stunning 360 ° panorama of the Dolomites; the view is unique, spectacular…some would call it a "spiritual" place. 
   

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And the best was yet to come….from Cortina, we took a short taxi ride to 
Passo Falzarego, then a heart-stopping gondola trip up to Rifugio Lagazuoi, an easy, fascinating stroll with a WWI Austrian Re-enactor. In the Rifugio, we enjoyed a convivial dinner with hostel companions, followed by sogni d’oro (sweet dreams) in rustic, cozy overnight accommodations.

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 The old adage is true…those who come to Cortina and the Dolomites return again and again. I certainly plan to!!!
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Bova Marina Calabria, Italy

11/17/2019

 
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​Here we are on the beach at  our last week long stop in Bova Marina. This was the southern most part of Italy in Calabria. The water was the perfect temp, weather in the 80's. Had the beach virtually to ourselves. No undertow in the area. Our doorway was 100 feet away and across the straits of isthmus we could see Siciliy and the volcano Mt. Aetna with its two or three plumes of smoke. It was breathtaking. 
Every morning Steve and I would walk about 2 l/2 miles down the lovely beach to get a pastry and capucchino.. Prices so reasonable--this beach apartment was only $ 57/night for the four of us. Food also was so inexpensive. And the Italians loved talking to us and treating us to cafe, olives. 
 
We did so much walking on the trip, extremely steep roads in a couple of hill-top towns and long beach walks, that my knee has improved so much that stairs are hardly a problem anymore.I had been avoiding lifting my leg because it hurt but out of necessity began using it so much that I must have strengthened muscles that compensated for the knee problem.
 
Did I mention that for one month, we lost all contact with the news! No way to describe how whole and cleansed it made us feel!
     
The trip was divine!
 
xoxoxoxoxoxox
 
Julia Ely

The Baiettis and The Catalanos in Calabria

11/17/2019

 
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​One of the high lights of our trip to Calabria was meeting Karen in Badolato. For 11 years she has cared for the stray cats in this most beautiful hill-top town of Badolato where we stayed for one week. Right now, 18 cats of all shapes and sizes walk down the steep, narrow roads at exactly 8:30 AM and 6 PM to dine at Karen's.. Part of their agreement is that they have all been spayed, but it's worth it--a scoop of dry and a big tablespoon of wet at each meal awaits them. She has no pictures of them dining al fresco, but it reminded me of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs--18 assorted china plates lined up in a row and 18 polite cats enjoying their meals.
 
No need to look for iguana meals anymore, so next to her house, many of her friends nap in little suspended flower pots or stretch out in the sun. (They sure don't want to miss a meal--though anyone who lives with cats knows that actually never happens!)
Now that we're back in Vermont, I'll visit my 18 friends and Karen on the website  Gatti di Badolato. 
 
I want to make sure I don't miss the adventures of Bob (nickname for Cowboy Bob because he is bowlegged.
 
Julia

    Author

    This blog has various authors and includes many VICA members who love to travel and often travel in Italy to places frequently “off the beaten path”.  We want to capture their stories to share with other members.

    We’d love to hear from you if you have a story you would share.  If you have a brief story about an experience you had travelling in Italy, please let me know (mcna8841@msn.com).  We are going to call this section “Storielle”.   (little stories).

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